Friday

Friday we went down to San Gimignano. I know its almost tourist central for Tuscany and collects descriptions like the "medieval Manhattan" but I really like the place. Some years back we were residents for a fortnight renting a top floor apartment just down from the Piazza del Duomo on the Via San Matteo. In the evening when the day trippers had gone it became a small Italian village where the priest would discuss football and the crops with the old men who sat around the squares watching the world - particularly the women - go by.
So it may be a World Heritage site and thus in danger of being strangled by visitors (like us) and sell nothing really useful but I do think it is one of the places everyone should see. Not that the approach is without its charms. Driving down the coast is a real mediterranean highway with woods all around and then breaking out into a bay. Turning left towards Volterra I was reminded of the first place I stayed in Tuscany, Castellina Marittima, which was on the way but beyond the hotel we stayed in I could not pick out any other landmarks in the village except new memorial to the Communist Resistance heroes killed by the "rabid" German Fascists (put up in 1988).Still the Communist Party offices were still there so somethings don't change.
Back down into the valley and the woods, which are in some ways not anyones vision of Tuscany but very common. On past Volterra with its amazing council chamber and then the first sight of San Gimignano - beyond the jail. Some may think it appropriate Tony Blair took a holiday near here some years ago but I am assured that he did not stay in that establishment.
Still arriving at the edge of the town we discovered that although it was not empty on the first Friday in October we could choose our space on the first car park we came to. The walk through the gates and up towards the Piazza Cisterna was lined as ever by shops selling souvenirs, ceramics, handbags and leather goods, wild boar salami and other "typical" local products and of course cafes. Under the arch at the top of the slope and bingo you are in the Piazza. With the old stone well now full of coins - why do people do that? - and the circle of cafes, ice cream parlours (very good- both of them) and two (expensive) hotels as well as the tourists it is a great place. I could sit there all day and people watch. Not that I expect Cher to come back but for one second I thought Dolly Parton was in town as a tiny American lady wandered across the square - but I was wrong. You can tell the first time visitors - these days they photograph anything and everything as they wander around looking for the best angles on the piazza, the towers, the arch, the well and end up photographing one another as well as the sights. of course we had a look in the Duomo (officially a Collegiata these days as there is no bishop). Last time we were here the poor place was covered in scaffolding. Thats gone and the major bits of repair and restoration are clear but not too bad. Still the frescos are as magical as ever from the life story of Christ on one side to the highlights of the Old Testament on the other and Saint Sebastian looking like a human porcupine on the back wall and visions of heaven and hell on either side of him. Still as its a picture free zone you will have to go and see for yourself.
Eventually we had to go having lunched and wandered around the back streets upto the Rocca and the Museum del Vernaccia di San Gimignano - with free tasting. We left wishing we could win the Euro Lottery so we could move back on a more permanent basis but we had to leave to feed the cat- complete with supplies of Vernaccia di San Gimignano.
Yes I know more churches and wine!