We got the answer to our horde of French vans on Saturday morning as they all had signs in the front announcing that they were off on a tour of Tunisia and Libya. So presumably they were taking the ferry from Genoa. I admire their nerve but wonder at how much it has cost in paperwork alone as they have cats and dogs with them.
Still that would be a real adventure so we wished them bon chance!
We headed west along the Autostrada de Fleuris as the sun shone, the temperature got to about 24C and the sun sparkeld off the Med below to our left as we went from tunnel to tunnel across the viaducts. Been here before but this time we could see over the crash barriers - and its a long way down on some of them. On the hillsides we could see the sheets of netting in the olive groves ready to catch the crop and watch the smoke from the fires of old wood (to judge by the smell). Really made me wish we could stay longer but the weather will get worse and so we might as get across France.
We arrived at our intended stop at Cagnes sur Mer only to find it closed . It was clear that they had not read the Caravan Club guide which said they were open until 1st November. So after a small panic we went on up the valley to the next indicated site( who had not read the Caravan Club guide either as it said they were closed but were open).
As we are moving swiftly on tomorrow we went to the local attractions. Haut Cagnes is home to a picture book castle and village looking down on the urban sprawl that is the Cote d'Azur. In the square the restaurants were doing a roaring trade - one booked out for a birthday with a Franch pub band who turned their hand to everything from Barry Manilow to Carlos Santana. Still it was easy to see why a flat in the village goes for 429000 euros and a house for 1.3M euros. And all the artists who ever wanted to be famous have painted it. And of course they want to be Renoir who spent his last years here and has a superb museum. The castle is an art gallery cum museum with a "panoramic tower" - well the views are. The tower has alimit of 12 people on the roof at any time but today it managed a crowd of 4. You can see all the way to Nice and along the Cote d'Azur and then away up into the Alps where the first snow has dusted the high mountains - another reminder to keep moving. Then we went down to Cros de Cagnes which is the seaside bit and joined all the locals in promenading in the sunshine along the front and stopping for a drink in a shoreside cafe. Can't do that in Southport just now I'll bet.
Finally got home and checked the score from Anfield with more than a little trepidation - 2-0 praise the Lord! Tomorrow we head west again to Languedoc and join our trail from last year but without some of the sites!! We maybe off-line for a little time but you never know I might just decide to go to a McDonalds for a salad and use their free wifi.
Sunday, October 25, 2009
Saturday, October 24, 2009
Leaving Italy
So this morning it was farewell to Toscana after an 18 day sojourn. Sadly autumn is showing signs of arriving even in la bel paese - warm days but a chill wind and cold nights so we have to head for the deserts of Andalucia where it is warmer and drier.
We have seen some sites we had seen before , some we had not visited and at least one we did not expect to see (on the Lucca road)! Used Saturday to make a last visit to Florence but stayed south of the river and went to the Palazzo Pitti and the Brancacci Chapel. There is not a lot of the latter but what there is stunning. A real rennaisance masterpiece. The Palazzo Pitti is enormous - we saw maybe half in 3 hours and it is a fascinating example of how a few people's taste made an artist. Caravaggio, Titian, Tintoretto, Andrea del Sato, Fra Fillippino Lippi, Raphael, van Dyke, Reubens were all there in varying numbers displayed a little haphazardly and described by the museum in some very strange terms. Still it boasts the sexiest looking Mary Magdalene and Virgin you are likely to see.
Sunday was a packing up day although we are much better and quicker at that. The day was enlivened by watching the Italian "special forces" or someone like that play with their fast motorboats in the bay. Like a scene from a James Bond movie but happily no shots were fired as the nearest ship said LPG in big letters on the side.
Moved 150 miles up the coast to north of Genoa on the truly amazing A10 autostrada. It rolls up and down and in and out of tunnels like a huge but gentle roller coaster. Still I managed to break the external mirrir glass on a road sign in the tunnel as I kept a bit too far over to the right - not like me I know - so we will have to manage on the backup mirror for a few weeks until we stop long enough to get a new one by courier as Royal Mail appears to have shut down. Our "snail mail" catch up took ten days!!! to get to us.
The site we are on is thankfully a short stay halt. Showers cost 50c for 4 mins, the wi-fi is "kaput". the A10 is 60 feet up and 60 feet to one side and the railway is 20 feet the other way and for this including enough electricity to run the kettle but not the fridge they charge 24.50 euros a night. We are paying the extra 3 euros a night to have a fridge, a kettle and some heating if we want. Probably by the time I post this we will be in France but lets wait and see.
Tuesday we went down to Portofino , partly out of curiosity as there used to an Italian restaurant in Aughton called that with a mural on the wall. Well the mural was a rather liberal interpratation of Portofino. The weather was a bit grim and at 5 euros an hour for the only car park in town we left the designer shops and fuschia coloured meerkats to themselves and the American tourists. We Had lunch out in Santa Margarhita which was nice and the food was good if a lot cheaper than Portofino.
Wednesday dawned very grey and got worse as we headed into Genoa after lunch - 18 kms away but took an hour to get in. By then it was raining so we parked and went to the Acquario - the biggest in Europe. A great time with their penguins, sharks and dolphins who were watching the diver clean their glass and showing off. Stayed longer than we intended and by the time we had walked through the narrow streets in the rain the Duomo was closing. Headed back to the car and took almost two hours in the local traffic and rain to get back as the rain reached monsoon proportions. Spent a cool evening drying off and being warm in the van.
Thursday - dawned grey but showed promise so we headed back to Genoa. The Duomo is like all the old town in a pedestrian area and boasts a "Holy Grail" in green glass(!), a piece of the "True Cross", a thorn from the "Crown of Thorns", bones from St Laurence, the platter that John the Baptists head was served up on to Salome and his ashes. As well as assorted containers for the above in gold silver and precious stones. Wandered around Genoa admiring the "old town" area which the guide books kept saying was "seedy". Well rough around the edges and reminded me of Liverpool with more Italians but all in all a nice place. And at the Focacceria IL Punto in the arcades opposite the harbour more of our favourite Neopolitan cakes.
Friday - we were going to move today but the wind was blowing a gale and showers seemed to be the order of the day so we decided to stay for one more night. Well as it turned out France came to us. Last night three french motorhomes arrived. Today another 15 (or so) have turned up and they all seem to know one another! God knows what is going on. Even Max is intimidated. And the Italians seem as gob-smacked as we are. We went down into Arenzano to do a bit of shopping and sightseeing. A nice little place with an amazing Town Hall and a sanctuary dedicated to the "Child of Prague". Well the shopping included local focaccia specialites (delicious) and trofie and pesto (another local invention) for todays meal. Tomorrow we must go.
We have seen some sites we had seen before , some we had not visited and at least one we did not expect to see (on the Lucca road)! Used Saturday to make a last visit to Florence but stayed south of the river and went to the Palazzo Pitti and the Brancacci Chapel. There is not a lot of the latter but what there is stunning. A real rennaisance masterpiece. The Palazzo Pitti is enormous - we saw maybe half in 3 hours and it is a fascinating example of how a few people's taste made an artist. Caravaggio, Titian, Tintoretto, Andrea del Sato, Fra Fillippino Lippi, Raphael, van Dyke, Reubens were all there in varying numbers displayed a little haphazardly and described by the museum in some very strange terms. Still it boasts the sexiest looking Mary Magdalene and Virgin you are likely to see.
Sunday was a packing up day although we are much better and quicker at that. The day was enlivened by watching the Italian "special forces" or someone like that play with their fast motorboats in the bay. Like a scene from a James Bond movie but happily no shots were fired as the nearest ship said LPG in big letters on the side.
Moved 150 miles up the coast to north of Genoa on the truly amazing A10 autostrada. It rolls up and down and in and out of tunnels like a huge but gentle roller coaster. Still I managed to break the external mirrir glass on a road sign in the tunnel as I kept a bit too far over to the right - not like me I know - so we will have to manage on the backup mirror for a few weeks until we stop long enough to get a new one by courier as Royal Mail appears to have shut down. Our "snail mail" catch up took ten days!!! to get to us.
The site we are on is thankfully a short stay halt. Showers cost 50c for 4 mins, the wi-fi is "kaput". the A10 is 60 feet up and 60 feet to one side and the railway is 20 feet the other way and for this including enough electricity to run the kettle but not the fridge they charge 24.50 euros a night. We are paying the extra 3 euros a night to have a fridge, a kettle and some heating if we want. Probably by the time I post this we will be in France but lets wait and see.
Tuesday we went down to Portofino , partly out of curiosity as there used to an Italian restaurant in Aughton called that with a mural on the wall. Well the mural was a rather liberal interpratation of Portofino. The weather was a bit grim and at 5 euros an hour for the only car park in town we left the designer shops and fuschia coloured meerkats to themselves and the American tourists. We Had lunch out in Santa Margarhita which was nice and the food was good if a lot cheaper than Portofino.
Wednesday dawned very grey and got worse as we headed into Genoa after lunch - 18 kms away but took an hour to get in. By then it was raining so we parked and went to the Acquario - the biggest in Europe. A great time with their penguins, sharks and dolphins who were watching the diver clean their glass and showing off. Stayed longer than we intended and by the time we had walked through the narrow streets in the rain the Duomo was closing. Headed back to the car and took almost two hours in the local traffic and rain to get back as the rain reached monsoon proportions. Spent a cool evening drying off and being warm in the van.
Thursday - dawned grey but showed promise so we headed back to Genoa. The Duomo is like all the old town in a pedestrian area and boasts a "Holy Grail" in green glass(!), a piece of the "True Cross", a thorn from the "Crown of Thorns", bones from St Laurence, the platter that John the Baptists head was served up on to Salome and his ashes. As well as assorted containers for the above in gold silver and precious stones. Wandered around Genoa admiring the "old town" area which the guide books kept saying was "seedy". Well rough around the edges and reminded me of Liverpool with more Italians but all in all a nice place. And at the Focacceria IL Punto in the arcades opposite the harbour more of our favourite Neopolitan cakes.
Friday - we were going to move today but the wind was blowing a gale and showers seemed to be the order of the day so we decided to stay for one more night. Well as it turned out France came to us. Last night three french motorhomes arrived. Today another 15 (or so) have turned up and they all seem to know one another! God knows what is going on. Even Max is intimidated. And the Italians seem as gob-smacked as we are. We went down into Arenzano to do a bit of shopping and sightseeing. A nice little place with an amazing Town Hall and a sanctuary dedicated to the "Child of Prague". Well the shopping included local focaccia specialites (delicious) and trofie and pesto (another local invention) for todays meal. Tomorrow we must go.
Monday, October 12, 2009
Radda in Chianti
Saturday was a wash out almost literally. It rained /thundered for virtually the whole day as if expecting the result from Dublin.
Yesterday we went to the Cinque Terre villages about an hour away. Unfortunately half of Italy went as well so 4 out of 5 were full - or at least their car parks were and the local police just sent you away. We di get lunch at levanto which was rather nice if not quite as good as the villages are supposed to be. Eventually we got into Monterosso al Mare which was very nice but too late to take the boat along the coast and back to see the other villages. Ah well a job for another day.
Today we decided to drive across to Chianti - called Surrey with sunshine by some. As soon as a Labour party member turned up the heavens were not pleased. As we sat down in Radda in Chianti to lunch the heavens opened and gave a mighty roar (or several) as well. Now I can really recommend a restaurant called "Al Chiasso dei Portiri" in Radda. It does have loads of refernces elsewhere but in 1997 we went there for lunch and it produced what is still in my opinion the "best Tiramisu in the world" or at least of those I've tasted (and I do try to find a one betterat every opportunity). Well its gone up market since then and is now pricey but the food is still great. The food at luchtime today was the best we have had - even if Tiramisu was not on the menu. So if you are ever in this part of the world save up both your appetite and your pennies (cents) and go to this restaurant. If its any consolation I gather there are even more expensive ones in Radda. But the staff are very friendly - they moved us (and the other diners) inside from their tented patio (table food et al) when they felt the weather was just too bad.
After lunch as we drove back the skied cleared and so we paid a quick visit to San Gimignano - well we have not been there for 6 years so twice in a week is not excessive - and bought some more wine and other essentials (like a handbag). Still it was nice to wander around and be mistaken for Italians by visiting Brits who addressed us in bad Italian first! Not sure if that is good or not.
Still waiting for the snail mail to catch up but as we gather there are problems at Royal Mail we might be here a while. Oh dear - although the nights are colder now. In fact so clear tonight we can see beyond the inner islands to Corsica on the horizon to the west.
Yesterday we went to the Cinque Terre villages about an hour away. Unfortunately half of Italy went as well so 4 out of 5 were full - or at least their car parks were and the local police just sent you away. We di get lunch at levanto which was rather nice if not quite as good as the villages are supposed to be. Eventually we got into Monterosso al Mare which was very nice but too late to take the boat along the coast and back to see the other villages. Ah well a job for another day.
Today we decided to drive across to Chianti - called Surrey with sunshine by some. As soon as a Labour party member turned up the heavens were not pleased. As we sat down in Radda in Chianti to lunch the heavens opened and gave a mighty roar (or several) as well. Now I can really recommend a restaurant called "Al Chiasso dei Portiri" in Radda. It does have loads of refernces elsewhere but in 1997 we went there for lunch and it produced what is still in my opinion the "best Tiramisu in the world" or at least of those I've tasted (and I do try to find a one betterat every opportunity). Well its gone up market since then and is now pricey but the food is still great. The food at luchtime today was the best we have had - even if Tiramisu was not on the menu. So if you are ever in this part of the world save up both your appetite and your pennies (cents) and go to this restaurant. If its any consolation I gather there are even more expensive ones in Radda. But the staff are very friendly - they moved us (and the other diners) inside from their tented patio (table food et al) when they felt the weather was just too bad.
After lunch as we drove back the skied cleared and so we paid a quick visit to San Gimignano - well we have not been there for 6 years so twice in a week is not excessive - and bought some more wine and other essentials (like a handbag). Still it was nice to wander around and be mistaken for Italians by visiting Brits who addressed us in bad Italian first! Not sure if that is good or not.
Still waiting for the snail mail to catch up but as we gather there are problems at Royal Mail we might be here a while. Oh dear - although the nights are colder now. In fact so clear tonight we can see beyond the inner islands to Corsica on the horizon to the west.
Tuesday, October 6, 2009
Catch up
Sunday was Florence - not all of it even the bits we have not seen before but some of the things we had not seen for a while and even bits we found by accident and some of the obvious bits including the Nuevo Mercato and the boar. It was cool but dry in Florence and although busy not quite the walking on heads experiece we have had on other visits. On the way back the heavens opened and the SGC Fi-Pi-Li( as its shown on the road signs) slowed to a crawl. Matched my mood when i got in and picked up the Liverpool result.
Monday was jobs around the van, cleaning, fixing the things that need fixing, filling and emptying the tanks which is a pain on this site. So the furthest we went was 10 kms to the Co-op hypermarket cum shopping centre. Still it was dry and we did get to watch the cruise ships leaving Livorno. All lit up they look like Blackpool on the move as they go past the container ships waitng outside the harbour.
Today we went down to Volterra, which like Florence benefitted from less heat and fewer people. I'm not sure that I'd realised before that the Rocca is a prison - bit like Lancaster castle but for "hard time". Today that the We also had the best lunch so far of this trip at a restaurant just off the main square. Good food and a decent price - even if its not in the Rough Guide. Then a meandering journey back in which we managed to get slightly mislaid when the road signs disappearred.Still made it in the end.
Monday was jobs around the van, cleaning, fixing the things that need fixing, filling and emptying the tanks which is a pain on this site. So the furthest we went was 10 kms to the Co-op hypermarket cum shopping centre. Still it was dry and we did get to watch the cruise ships leaving Livorno. All lit up they look like Blackpool on the move as they go past the container ships waitng outside the harbour.
Today we went down to Volterra, which like Florence benefitted from less heat and fewer people. I'm not sure that I'd realised before that the Rocca is a prison - bit like Lancaster castle but for "hard time". Today that the We also had the best lunch so far of this trip at a restaurant just off the main square. Good food and a decent price - even if its not in the Rough Guide. Then a meandering journey back in which we managed to get slightly mislaid when the road signs disappearred.Still made it in the end.
Sunday, October 4, 2009
Pisa'd off
This site charges 2 seuro an hour for internet access - and its not that quick.
Still yesterday (Saturday) we went local just down the road to Pisa but after a convoluted route. We tried to get to Gombo, which lovers of literature will know is the place Shelley was cremated after he drowned while sailing from Livorno. We have seen the picture in the Walker and decided to go and see the site. After driving around US base Camp Derby (vast but not very secret as its on the road signs) and finding a monastery (ruined) allegedly set up by St Peter we were stopped as the Italian president has a secure house near Gombo. So we went into Pisa, Which in my humble opinion is dire. The area around the Duomo and tower is drowned in tatty stalls selling total rubbish - that's the polite version - and if I saw anyone else doing the original "I'm pushing the Tower" pose I could scream. (Apologies to anyone with that photo).
So we skipped past the Baptistery, Duomo and Tower and went to Campsanto. Now why anyone would in the twelfth century bring a load of earth from Jerusalem just to provide holy ground for the rich and famous is beyond me. But that is what they allegedly did. The cloisters are a tribute to the destructive power of man not his creativity. Fire bombed by the "good guys" in WW II the place is virtually bare.
But walk to the two surviving frescoes and wow.. . called the Triumph of Death and the Last Judgement they are masterpieces for the medieval Catholic vision. Death, retribution and suffering in large doses yet done with style and a vivid imagination. I can see it frightening the masses back into their place.
Shame the same is not true of the rest of Pisa. The place seems tired and tatty with graffiti all over - even if some is witty and political. The town is unable to capitalise on its fame and use it for good. Overall a sad picture - sort of Blackpool with religious overtones!
Still yesterday (Saturday) we went local just down the road to Pisa but after a convoluted route. We tried to get to Gombo, which lovers of literature will know is the place Shelley was cremated after he drowned while sailing from Livorno. We have seen the picture in the Walker and decided to go and see the site. After driving around US base Camp Derby (vast but not very secret as its on the road signs) and finding a monastery (ruined) allegedly set up by St Peter we were stopped as the Italian president has a secure house near Gombo. So we went into Pisa, Which in my humble opinion is dire. The area around the Duomo and tower is drowned in tatty stalls selling total rubbish - that's the polite version - and if I saw anyone else doing the original "I'm pushing the Tower" pose I could scream. (Apologies to anyone with that photo).
So we skipped past the Baptistery, Duomo and Tower and went to Campsanto. Now why anyone would in the twelfth century bring a load of earth from Jerusalem just to provide holy ground for the rich and famous is beyond me. But that is what they allegedly did. The cloisters are a tribute to the destructive power of man not his creativity. Fire bombed by the "good guys" in WW II the place is virtually bare.
But walk to the two surviving frescoes and wow.. . called the Triumph of Death and the Last Judgement they are masterpieces for the medieval Catholic vision. Death, retribution and suffering in large doses yet done with style and a vivid imagination. I can see it frightening the masses back into their place.
Shame the same is not true of the rest of Pisa. The place seems tired and tatty with graffiti all over - even if some is witty and political. The town is unable to capitalise on its fame and use it for good. Overall a sad picture - sort of Blackpool with religious overtones!
Friday
Friday we went down to San Gimignano. I know its almost tourist central for Tuscany and collects descriptions like the "medieval Manhattan" but I really like the place. Some years back we were residents for a fortnight renting a top floor apartment just down from the Piazza del Duomo on the Via San Matteo. In the evening when the day trippers had gone it became a small Italian village where the priest would discuss football and the crops with the old men who sat around the squares watching the world - particularly the women - go by.
So it may be a World Heritage site and thus in danger of being strangled by visitors (like us) and sell nothing really useful but I do think it is one of the places everyone should see. Not that the approach is without its charms. Driving down the coast is a real mediterranean highway with woods all around and then breaking out into a bay. Turning left towards Volterra I was reminded of the first place I stayed in Tuscany, Castellina Marittima, which was on the way but beyond the hotel we stayed in I could not pick out any other landmarks in the village except new memorial to the Communist Resistance heroes killed by the "rabid" German Fascists (put up in 1988).Still the Communist Party offices were still there so somethings don't change.
Back down into the valley and the woods, which are in some ways not anyones vision of Tuscany but very common. On past Volterra with its amazing council chamber and then the first sight of San Gimignano - beyond the jail. Some may think it appropriate Tony Blair took a holiday near here some years ago but I am assured that he did not stay in that establishment.
Still arriving at the edge of the town we discovered that although it was not empty on the first Friday in October we could choose our space on the first car park we came to. The walk through the gates and up towards the Piazza Cisterna was lined as ever by shops selling souvenirs, ceramics, handbags and leather goods, wild boar salami and other "typical" local products and of course cafes. Under the arch at the top of the slope and bingo you are in the Piazza. With the old stone well now full of coins - why do people do that? - and the circle of cafes, ice cream parlours (very good- both of them) and two (expensive) hotels as well as the tourists it is a great place. I could sit there all day and people watch. Not that I expect Cher to come back but for one second I thought Dolly Parton was in town as a tiny American lady wandered across the square - but I was wrong. You can tell the first time visitors - these days they photograph anything and everything as they wander around looking for the best angles on the piazza, the towers, the arch, the well and end up photographing one another as well as the sights. of course we had a look in the Duomo (officially a Collegiata these days as there is no bishop). Last time we were here the poor place was covered in scaffolding. Thats gone and the major bits of repair and restoration are clear but not too bad. Still the frescos are as magical as ever from the life story of Christ on one side to the highlights of the Old Testament on the other and Saint Sebastian looking like a human porcupine on the back wall and visions of heaven and hell on either side of him. Still as its a picture free zone you will have to go and see for yourself.
Eventually we had to go having lunched and wandered around the back streets upto the Rocca and the Museum del Vernaccia di San Gimignano - with free tasting. We left wishing we could win the Euro Lottery so we could move back on a more permanent basis but we had to leave to feed the cat- complete with supplies of Vernaccia di San Gimignano.
Yes I know more churches and wine!
So it may be a World Heritage site and thus in danger of being strangled by visitors (like us) and sell nothing really useful but I do think it is one of the places everyone should see. Not that the approach is without its charms. Driving down the coast is a real mediterranean highway with woods all around and then breaking out into a bay. Turning left towards Volterra I was reminded of the first place I stayed in Tuscany, Castellina Marittima, which was on the way but beyond the hotel we stayed in I could not pick out any other landmarks in the village except new memorial to the Communist Resistance heroes killed by the "rabid" German Fascists (put up in 1988).Still the Communist Party offices were still there so somethings don't change.
Back down into the valley and the woods, which are in some ways not anyones vision of Tuscany but very common. On past Volterra with its amazing council chamber and then the first sight of San Gimignano - beyond the jail. Some may think it appropriate Tony Blair took a holiday near here some years ago but I am assured that he did not stay in that establishment.
Still arriving at the edge of the town we discovered that although it was not empty on the first Friday in October we could choose our space on the first car park we came to. The walk through the gates and up towards the Piazza Cisterna was lined as ever by shops selling souvenirs, ceramics, handbags and leather goods, wild boar salami and other "typical" local products and of course cafes. Under the arch at the top of the slope and bingo you are in the Piazza. With the old stone well now full of coins - why do people do that? - and the circle of cafes, ice cream parlours (very good- both of them) and two (expensive) hotels as well as the tourists it is a great place. I could sit there all day and people watch. Not that I expect Cher to come back but for one second I thought Dolly Parton was in town as a tiny American lady wandered across the square - but I was wrong. You can tell the first time visitors - these days they photograph anything and everything as they wander around looking for the best angles on the piazza, the towers, the arch, the well and end up photographing one another as well as the sights. of course we had a look in the Duomo (officially a Collegiata these days as there is no bishop). Last time we were here the poor place was covered in scaffolding. Thats gone and the major bits of repair and restoration are clear but not too bad. Still the frescos are as magical as ever from the life story of Christ on one side to the highlights of the Old Testament on the other and Saint Sebastian looking like a human porcupine on the back wall and visions of heaven and hell on either side of him. Still as its a picture free zone you will have to go and see for yourself.
Eventually we had to go having lunched and wandered around the back streets upto the Rocca and the Museum del Vernaccia di San Gimignano - with free tasting. We left wishing we could win the Euro Lottery so we could move back on a more permanent basis but we had to leave to feed the cat- complete with supplies of Vernaccia di San Gimignano.
Yes I know more churches and wine!
Thursday, October 1, 2009
Livorno
A quiet day today - except for Max's "swearing session" with the local site cat. the site does not allow dogs so this she cat thinks the whole site and eveerything on it is her personal property. Max did not quite see it her way and a "frank but comradely exchange of views" took place. She eventually stalked off having slashed at both Lynda and I when we walked towards her. Clearly a proper little madam.
After a morning of grocery shopping and lunch we fought off the idea of going to sleep and instead went to see the local attraction, the Sanctuary of the Madonna of Montenero.She is credited according to the pictures in the sanctuary with saving thousands from disasters of all kinds - storms at sea, coach crashes of all kinds over several hundred years, fires, wars - you name the disaster she has been the hero. But all around the sanctuary is proof that even Jeremy Clarkson can get things right. I love the programme but his views are dire generally. But he once said if you want to collect really really awful souvenirs go to a shrine of the Catholic church and look around the stalls outside. He's totally right. Madonnas of all sorts and saints of all kinds in plaster and plastic that light up/glow in the dark/ follow you round the room with their eyes - you imagine it and it can be bought in the square at Montenero Alto.The sanctuary shop is only slightly better as i saw not light up statues.
Still the campsite know how to charge - 2 euros an hour for internet access so these are off line rants. Still all i will have to do is be a careful farmer.
After a morning of grocery shopping and lunch we fought off the idea of going to sleep and instead went to see the local attraction, the Sanctuary of the Madonna of Montenero.She is credited according to the pictures in the sanctuary with saving thousands from disasters of all kinds - storms at sea, coach crashes of all kinds over several hundred years, fires, wars - you name the disaster she has been the hero. But all around the sanctuary is proof that even Jeremy Clarkson can get things right. I love the programme but his views are dire generally. But he once said if you want to collect really really awful souvenirs go to a shrine of the Catholic church and look around the stalls outside. He's totally right. Madonnas of all sorts and saints of all kinds in plaster and plastic that light up/glow in the dark/ follow you round the room with their eyes - you imagine it and it can be bought in the square at Montenero Alto.The sanctuary shop is only slightly better as i saw not light up statues.
Still the campsite know how to charge - 2 euros an hour for internet access so these are off line rants. Still all i will have to do is be a careful farmer.
Travelling
Yesterday we travelled up from Fiano Romano to Livorno on Italy's west coast. Livorno is about 10 miles south of Pisa and only notable for being Italy's second port after Genoa. In World War II it suffered from "heavy bombing" (by the Allies) and was left a wreck but allegedly there was not much to see anyway.
The journey up was like a wine drinkers itinerary. Fiano (available in your local Tesco but Sicilian actually) then Orvieto where the town is better than the wine in my view: then Montepulciano for the red drinkers and finally Chianti. Worst moment was a break just west of Florence when we stopped for LPG and coffee. The forecourt man having hooked up the gas wanders around and spots the LFC sticker on the car. Comes back says Liverpool? Si -then he shakes my hand and grins. Cheeky blighter.
Finally reach our new home for several days in the late afternoon but the view is worth it so see the new picture in the Facebook album as it is the view from the back of the van at sunset yesterday.
The journey up was like a wine drinkers itinerary. Fiano (available in your local Tesco but Sicilian actually) then Orvieto where the town is better than the wine in my view: then Montepulciano for the red drinkers and finally Chianti. Worst moment was a break just west of Florence when we stopped for LPG and coffee. The forecourt man having hooked up the gas wanders around and spots the LFC sticker on the car. Comes back says Liverpool? Si -then he shakes my hand and grins. Cheeky blighter.
Finally reach our new home for several days in the late afternoon but the view is worth it so see the new picture in the Facebook album as it is the view from the back of the van at sunset yesterday.
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